I'm now back with Sarah and Mike and they now have broadband and computer working well. Next stop China (tomorrow) but I have more reporting on India to do...
14th March. Off to Mandawa, a town known for its havelis - the houses painted with loads of pictures inside and out. The hotel is also a haveli and beautifully decorated, but limited water and electricity (only available at certain times). Was 'guided' around the town by one the hotel staff and saw all the other havelis. Most of them are very run down, crumbling even, but a couple have been, or are being, restored and are impressive. Taken to the inevitable shop and shown loads of things but managed to extricate myself fairly quickly. That night I was joined at supper by some of the drivers who thought I looked boring and would like company! I tried to explain the different between bored and boring...
Next day was my last day and we drove back to Delhi. Sidur took another of his 'short cuts' and we got very late - plus he wanted me to go to his home for lunch, which we did. It was cooked while I was there by his beautiful wife. 4 different dishes all cooked over a camping gas stove with his wife, Ruby, sitting on her haunches. It did take a long time but was delicious. Got back to Sarah and Mike's in time for supper!
Couple of days with Sarah and Mike, sorting out washing, talking English and drinking wine! And Sarah had recommended a pedicure nearby so we splashed out all of £6 for an hour's foot pampering. Probably lost 7 ozs with all the rough skin they removed and my toes are now a beautiful shade of deep pink.
On Sat. 17th I started another experience - an Indian train ride. Friends had said I should travel by train so I booked a 46 hr trip from Delhi to Kerala. I don't think I'll do it again but I survived! I don't think the carriages had been cleaned since the train was built although I did have clean sheets and a very dubious blanket which would have stood up on its own. Sarah had made me loads of sandwiches, gave me crunchy bars and bananas which kept me going for lunches and breakfast but I splashed out on the trains suppers at 25 rupees (30p) and I'm not sure what I ate but I suffered no side effects. People come through the corridors continuously selling chaia and coffee, sandwiches, nibbles, books, jewellery. Chaia and coffee are sold continuously and the calls of Chaiya and Caffee never stop. I thought I would spend time looking at the countryside going by but the windows were dirty and made of defective glass so couldn't see much! Nowhere to wash so thank goodness for wet wipes but the loos were tolerable. I moved bunks at the request of a guy who wanted to share with his family and ended up sharing a 'cabin' (curtained area off a long corridor full of curtains and bunks - no doors) meant for 2 with a husband and wife and loads of carrier bags. Finally got back to my original cabin and shared with a very pleasant and interesting lady from Kerala.
So, I arrived in Kerala . The countryside has changed from desert, to farming, to palm trees and lots of green. Met my new driver, Vipin and got the hotel for a very welcome shower. Spent the afternoon looking around Cochin town guided by Vipin and saw the enormous fishing nets being used.
20th March we drove to Munnar. Very slowly, Vipin is in no hurry. The countryside is gorgeous, green, loads of trees - coconut palms, banana and pineapply plantations, rubber trees. Very hilly - high hills so the ride was up and down and round and round. Houses now built more substantially and the villages and towns look more prosperous and not so crowded. Very few cows, I didn't see any pigs in the road, a few goats, and not so much rubbish everywhere. Even the chai places are more like little restaurants. Large, well built and imposing Catholic churches everywhere. And in Kerala they drive on the left hand side of the road and overtake on the right - just like home! Still lots of horn blowing and jostling for places in the towns. Then we got to Munnar and there are tea plantations for miles. Thousands and thousands of acres. Every hill is covered with tea. Shrubby dense bushes about 3 ft. high, in varying shades of green depending upon when they were last trimmed. They are clipped all year round by women in colourful saris using huge shears which have metal 'buckets' attached to them to save the clippings. They all look very neat and, although in rows, they are not in straight lines and almost look like sanskrit writing with the gaps around the plants, or perhaps flock carpets. Silver oak trees, tall and slender, grow amongst the bushes as they not only give shelter but apparently draw up loads of water in the rainy season and leach it out when its dry. It all makes for a very calm and lovely countryside. At the side of the roads, too, there are brilliant blue tamarind trees, as well as the palms. It is a beautiful place, I loved it. I spent 2 days in Munnar in a hotel with sullen staff whose favourite word was No if I asked for anything, but apart from that, it was great. I had a Ayurvedic massage which was excellent, and went to a local show of mime particular to Kerala, both good suggestions of Vipins. The second day he drove me around and we visited two dams and lakes which were picturesque (apart from the rubbish), and went right up high to a view point over a deep valley with hills of tea and other shrubs around - spectacular. We ate wonderful tasting little bananas sold at the side of the road. Visited a local plant nursery and the plants are just the same as in England. Pansies, geraniums, petunias, etc.
22nd March we drove to Periyar. Left behind the tea and drove through woodland of palms, bananas and rubber plantations, lots of cardoman. Visited an interesting spice garden with loads of plants used for Ayurvedic medicines and then I had the statutory Elephant ride before a 90 min boat ride on a large lake which is at the centre of a wildlife park. Still no tigers (!) but loads of huge bison, and deer and different birds. Great hotel where there were notices up for me to keep my doors closed as monkeys were regular visitors!
The next day we drove to Alleppy for my planned trip in the Kerala backwaters on a traditional rice boat. We arrived about 12.30 and I have the boat to myself! Lovely boat, sides and 'roof' covered in woven bamboo and a dear cabin and good 'en-suite'. We set off, poled out of the mooring by a very long bamboo cane and I was served a 5 dish lunch of delicious fish and different vegetables and rice. We made our way lazily through wide canals and some parts of a lake. Sides of the canals are populated by small but mainly quite neat looking single storey houses, coconut palms, banana trees and loads of rice paddy fields. The river is used by the river folk for washing, doing the washing, cleaning teeth, washing pots and pans, swimming, everything! The main noise heard is the slapping of clothes against stones by women standing knee high in colourful saris. It was just wonderful and the crew were chilled and pleasant. I had a beer as I watched the sun go down behind the palms and then given another great supper - chicken this time - after we had tied up to a bank with our own banana tree bending over the bows of the boat. The next day we went back and my 'cruise' finished but it was very memorable. I then flew back to Sarah and Mike and their great hospitality - and more washing!
It has been so interesting to see the difference, not only in scenery but way of life and attitudes, between Rajhastan in the north and Kerala in the south.
Up to date now - and probably enough reading for you for now! Next blog will be from China.
With love, Liz
14th March. Off to Mandawa, a town known for its havelis - the houses painted with loads of pictures inside and out. The hotel is also a haveli and beautifully decorated, but limited water and electricity (only available at certain times). Was 'guided' around the town by one the hotel staff and saw all the other havelis. Most of them are very run down, crumbling even, but a couple have been, or are being, restored and are impressive. Taken to the inevitable shop and shown loads of things but managed to extricate myself fairly quickly. That night I was joined at supper by some of the drivers who thought I looked boring and would like company! I tried to explain the different between bored and boring...
Next day was my last day and we drove back to Delhi. Sidur took another of his 'short cuts' and we got very late - plus he wanted me to go to his home for lunch, which we did. It was cooked while I was there by his beautiful wife. 4 different dishes all cooked over a camping gas stove with his wife, Ruby, sitting on her haunches. It did take a long time but was delicious. Got back to Sarah and Mike's in time for supper!
Couple of days with Sarah and Mike, sorting out washing, talking English and drinking wine! And Sarah had recommended a pedicure nearby so we splashed out all of £6 for an hour's foot pampering. Probably lost 7 ozs with all the rough skin they removed and my toes are now a beautiful shade of deep pink.
On Sat. 17th I started another experience - an Indian train ride. Friends had said I should travel by train so I booked a 46 hr trip from Delhi to Kerala. I don't think I'll do it again but I survived! I don't think the carriages had been cleaned since the train was built although I did have clean sheets and a very dubious blanket which would have stood up on its own. Sarah had made me loads of sandwiches, gave me crunchy bars and bananas which kept me going for lunches and breakfast but I splashed out on the trains suppers at 25 rupees (30p) and I'm not sure what I ate but I suffered no side effects. People come through the corridors continuously selling chaia and coffee, sandwiches, nibbles, books, jewellery. Chaia and coffee are sold continuously and the calls of Chaiya and Caffee never stop. I thought I would spend time looking at the countryside going by but the windows were dirty and made of defective glass so couldn't see much! Nowhere to wash so thank goodness for wet wipes but the loos were tolerable. I moved bunks at the request of a guy who wanted to share with his family and ended up sharing a 'cabin' (curtained area off a long corridor full of curtains and bunks - no doors) meant for 2 with a husband and wife and loads of carrier bags. Finally got back to my original cabin and shared with a very pleasant and interesting lady from Kerala.
So, I arrived in Kerala . The countryside has changed from desert, to farming, to palm trees and lots of green. Met my new driver, Vipin and got the hotel for a very welcome shower. Spent the afternoon looking around Cochin town guided by Vipin and saw the enormous fishing nets being used.
20th March we drove to Munnar. Very slowly, Vipin is in no hurry. The countryside is gorgeous, green, loads of trees - coconut palms, banana and pineapply plantations, rubber trees. Very hilly - high hills so the ride was up and down and round and round. Houses now built more substantially and the villages and towns look more prosperous and not so crowded. Very few cows, I didn't see any pigs in the road, a few goats, and not so much rubbish everywhere. Even the chai places are more like little restaurants. Large, well built and imposing Catholic churches everywhere. And in Kerala they drive on the left hand side of the road and overtake on the right - just like home! Still lots of horn blowing and jostling for places in the towns. Then we got to Munnar and there are tea plantations for miles. Thousands and thousands of acres. Every hill is covered with tea. Shrubby dense bushes about 3 ft. high, in varying shades of green depending upon when they were last trimmed. They are clipped all year round by women in colourful saris using huge shears which have metal 'buckets' attached to them to save the clippings. They all look very neat and, although in rows, they are not in straight lines and almost look like sanskrit writing with the gaps around the plants, or perhaps flock carpets. Silver oak trees, tall and slender, grow amongst the bushes as they not only give shelter but apparently draw up loads of water in the rainy season and leach it out when its dry. It all makes for a very calm and lovely countryside. At the side of the roads, too, there are brilliant blue tamarind trees, as well as the palms. It is a beautiful place, I loved it. I spent 2 days in Munnar in a hotel with sullen staff whose favourite word was No if I asked for anything, but apart from that, it was great. I had a Ayurvedic massage which was excellent, and went to a local show of mime particular to Kerala, both good suggestions of Vipins. The second day he drove me around and we visited two dams and lakes which were picturesque (apart from the rubbish), and went right up high to a view point over a deep valley with hills of tea and other shrubs around - spectacular. We ate wonderful tasting little bananas sold at the side of the road. Visited a local plant nursery and the plants are just the same as in England. Pansies, geraniums, petunias, etc.
22nd March we drove to Periyar. Left behind the tea and drove through woodland of palms, bananas and rubber plantations, lots of cardoman. Visited an interesting spice garden with loads of plants used for Ayurvedic medicines and then I had the statutory Elephant ride before a 90 min boat ride on a large lake which is at the centre of a wildlife park. Still no tigers (!) but loads of huge bison, and deer and different birds. Great hotel where there were notices up for me to keep my doors closed as monkeys were regular visitors!
The next day we drove to Alleppy for my planned trip in the Kerala backwaters on a traditional rice boat. We arrived about 12.30 and I have the boat to myself! Lovely boat, sides and 'roof' covered in woven bamboo and a dear cabin and good 'en-suite'. We set off, poled out of the mooring by a very long bamboo cane and I was served a 5 dish lunch of delicious fish and different vegetables and rice. We made our way lazily through wide canals and some parts of a lake. Sides of the canals are populated by small but mainly quite neat looking single storey houses, coconut palms, banana trees and loads of rice paddy fields. The river is used by the river folk for washing, doing the washing, cleaning teeth, washing pots and pans, swimming, everything! The main noise heard is the slapping of clothes against stones by women standing knee high in colourful saris. It was just wonderful and the crew were chilled and pleasant. I had a beer as I watched the sun go down behind the palms and then given another great supper - chicken this time - after we had tied up to a bank with our own banana tree bending over the bows of the boat. The next day we went back and my 'cruise' finished but it was very memorable. I then flew back to Sarah and Mike and their great hospitality - and more washing!
It has been so interesting to see the difference, not only in scenery but way of life and attitudes, between Rajhastan in the north and Kerala in the south.
Up to date now - and probably enough reading for you for now! Next blog will be from China.
With love, Liz
Wow you are getting around. It sounds amazing you are quite an adventurer ....... this will keep conversations going for years Liz and far from being boring. ha ha. Wonderful weather home here at the moment so took a week off supply to be with Phil at home. First race of the season last Thursday and I was in a Tshirt all evening... and its March. Strange happenings with the weather... Scotland had the highest temperatures since records began and then plumetted to snow and blizzards.....the wild life and plant life are confused..... Gone chilly here in Cornwall now ... shame as Spring Series just about to begin. Well shopping to do for Easter. China she is on the way. Cheers Penny
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